MARIN ULTRA CHALLENGE 50K - TRAIL RUNNING WHERE IT ALL STARTED!

Towering redwoods, stunning coastal headlands, sprawling ocean beaches, and open rolling verdant hills, California’s Marin County is an exceptionally beautiful place. Located just north of San Francisco and connected to the city by the majestic Golden Gate Bridge, Marin’s natural landscapes form quite a contrasting background to the city by the bay. More than half of this county is protected in preserves, easements, and state and national park lands. The county teems with hikers, runners, bicyclists and folks of all ages and abilities engaging in outdoor recreation. Marin’s iconic Mount Tamalpais is where mountain biking began. And it was on Mount Tam’s Dipsea Trail way back in 1905 that the very first trail running race was held. I was stoked to finally be doing an ultra-run here!

            I signed up for the Marin Ultra Challenge affectionately referred to as The MUC. Directed by Inside Trail Racing, the MUC is their premier race and this year’s run was the 13^th annual. The MUC would not only allow me to experience the full grandeur of the stunning Marin Headlands, but also provide me with an incredible challenge. Originally I signed up for the 50 mile, but my recent injury had me a little concerned if I would be able to make the cutoffs on the course with its 10,500 feet of elevation gain. I opted instead for the 50K, no easy race with more than 6,000 feet of elevation gain. It was a wise decision as I ended up having a strong performance and without the anxiety of making tight cutoffs. I was able to truly have fun on the run.   

The Marin Headlands are legendary among trail and ultra-runners for their breathtaking and challenging terrain and extensive trail system. There’s such a strong ultra-community here and the county has a long and colorful running history. The Headlands have a long and colorful history too. Home to the Coast Miwok people, the US Government established several military posts here beginning in 1850 to protect the Golden Gate and San Francisco Bay from hostile ships. Military instillations grew during World Wars I and II and the site housed Nike missiles during the Cold War. By the 1960s the government started decommissioning the bases setting the stage for one of the biggest conservation success stories in our country’s history.  

            Congressman Phillip Burton tirelessly advocated that these military lands become parklands. A huge development nearly consumed the rugged hills above the Golden Gate Bridge, but Burton, civil leaders, concerned county residents, and dedicated areas conservationists were able to stop it. A visit in 1972 by then President Nixon sealed the deal and the Marin Headlands along with San Francisco’s Presidio became part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area managed by the National Park Service. Today the GGNRA contains more than 80,000 aces making it the largest urban National Park in the country. It provides recreational open space for nearly 8 million people who call the Bay Area home. I was stoked to be exploring a good chunk of it on the run.

            The race started from Rodeo Beach near the barracks of the former Fort Cronkhite. The 50 milers started in the morning darkness a half hour before the 50K runners. As those of us in the shorter distance lined up we could see a ribbon of light streaking high above us thanks to a procession of headlamps. Morning light soon broke and almost 250 of us were off, just behind 225 Fifty milers. It was a good size field which meant that you always had company on the course.

            We immediately started steeply climbing—using steps on a couple of occasions. The surf crashed directly below us as we passed by old army batteries and defunct radar sites. The morning sunlight was glorious casting beautiful shadows and hues on the rolling green headlands. With the first climb over, an insanely steep descent followed leading to another climb—a pattern that would be repeated often. Several miles in on a long enjoyable descent I met up with Merritt from New York City. It was his first 50K and although we were almost 40 years apart in age, we connected—probably an East Coast thing. We talked about running, skiing, life back east, history and politics. Passing runners got a kick out of hearing us talking politics knowing all too well it was helping us vent by running faster. And that we did as we kept up a good pace on the hilly Coastal and Bobcat Trails. We paused briefly to photograph spring wildflowers and the Golden Gate Bridge rising in the background.

            We then cruised down the Marincello Trail, which sounded to me like an Italian aperitif. The trail is actually named after the huge planned development that almost occurred here and follows one of the original boulevards punched into the hills before the whole thing came to a stop. When I feel despair it’s always great to have reminders of hope—especially of people overcoming the odds to do something noble. Their fight and win is a conservation legacy for all us to behold. It makes this wildly beautiful place I was running through even more special.

            We were soon on the Coast Trail again on more insanely rough and steep terrain. The ocean views were mind blowing. I know all too well to keep my eyes on the ground while running thought pretty landscapes. All it take is just for one moment of looking up for a rock, root, or hole to get you and send you toppling. I made it through this race with just one trip. I did however stop frequently to take pictures.

            The Bay Area can be wet, cold and foggy in March. But on this race day it was sunny and in the 70s. I embraced that preferring warmth over cold rain any day. I stayed hydrated and kept my electrolytes replenished and had no issues. The aid stations were well-supported with enthusiastic volunteers and well-stocked with fresh oranges and watermelons (love running in California for the fruit) which I ravaged. Little boiled potatoes were on hand too which go down easily and help maintain potassium levels.

            Mid-race presented two long sustained climbs that were quite challenging. But I pushed on and ran with some great company. The course wasn’t closed to the public and on this sunny Saturday we were met with quite a few mountain bikers, runners, and hikers. Nearly all of them were extremely friendly and offered encouragement. For such a large urban area I was struck by how friendly folks are here.

            We continued across the open coast scrub. Shade was at a premium on this run so when it was encountered it was savored. I made the last climb and was psyched for the 2 mile decent ahead of me to the finish. But steps and patches of pavement from old military roads didn’t allow me to run as fast as I’d like to. But I did finish the race a lot faster than I was planning with a time of 7.13.27 and finishing 134 out of 239. As usual I was one of the oldest finishers. This race however had a handful of over 60 runners. I ran with a few of them and we talked about our issues about being older ultra-runners. But none of us talked like we are ready to be done with this crazy obsession!

            After refueling and congratulating fellow runners I headed for Rodeo Beach for a soothing barefoot walk in the cold surf. The feet loved it. And I loved that I finally got to experience an ultra-run in the area that pretty much started the sport of trail running. And as always I was proud to represent Team Potato on the run. Looking forward to my next challenge in the Utah desert.